| Platform 5, Reading station, at 0036...
... and Platform 4, Plymouth station, at 0630...
... then onward, to Penzance - the South-westerly tip of the UK rail network - for 0800.
Such is the life of The Night Riviera, the jewel in the crown of First Great Western (who don't always warrant the Royal headgear), and the eighth wonder of the world as far as this night sleeper is concerned.
Not that I get much night sleeping done whenever I go on it. It's not that its coaches are noisy, bumpy or uncomfortable; quite the opposite, since the rolling stock used is old enough to recall an era where, unlike today, these traits were unacceptable to the rail traveller. It's just that it's so much bloody fun.
 From the moment it pulls in, there's an air of excitement about going somewhere. It's a sentiment easily lost in a world where getting there has become more important than the journey itself. The Night Riviera travels at an hour when time pressures are asleep, and makes a bizarre virtue of two great plights of modern life, the need to travel and the necessity of rest. It's the ultimate in multi-tasking.
Granted, I'm something of a train buff. Of course I'd find it exciting to head off in a rake of old British Rail Mark III sleeper stock, headed by what is, essentially, an old Class 47 locomotive from the '60s - all refurbished to an impressive standard way beyond that of any brand new train, by the way - but I defy any non-gricer to set foot aboard The Night Riviera and not be disappointed when it's time to jump off.
 For those with a birth (non-sleepers can use standard seating at the rear of the train), there's a facility every bit as plush as a hotel lounge, and a fully stocked bar to keep you... fully stocked. And when the time comes, you can retire to a comfy, air-conditioned cabin complete with bunk, basin, and all the comforts of home. In the morning, there's a call from your steward, who brings you tea, coffee, biscuits and croissants.
"What time in the morning, Sir?", he asked as I boarded.
"Well... I'm off at Plymouth. Don't we arrive at 5.30?".
"Oh yes", he replied, "but we hold the train for an hour to give you a chance to enjoy your breakfast."
Of course they do. The people running this service - and it is, a service - take a great pride in what they're doing. As with its Caledonian counterpart, people have had to fight hard for the continued existence of this train over the years, and there's a sense of that ongoing triumph of quality over economy. Over the years, both BR and First have made numerous attempts to ditch the sleeper arm of their operations, but it's easy to see why the punters gave such resistance to those efforts.
 When you lie in bed, at your most contemplative, and feel the familiar pop in your ears from Brunel's Box Tunnel, or catch a glimpse of Bristol Temple Meads whizzing past your window, it's just like a child's dream. It's far too exciting to sleep.
Try it.
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Comments so far: 1
A great article, David, and I liked the photos as well!
It is indeed nice to know that services like these survived BR cut backs, rail privatisation and perhaps further attempts by new train operators to scrap them, but still they carry on, thanks to campaigners.
Relics in some ways perhaps, but welcome ones nonetheless. Long may they continue in their present form, with just the occasional tweak here and there to keep them up to scratch.
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